October 18, 2021
Torrey, Utah
When I came to Utah I didn’t expect to write about sex or utopias. I came here to hike in the five national parks, and to explore the history and culture of a different state. So it just goes to show that you never know what you will or will not find when you leave the routines of home and travel into an alternate reality. And Utah ain’t California.
Zion National Park is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. For that reason it’s very crowded most of the year. One woman I met there compared it to Disneyland, in terms of the long lines of people waiting to get on the park shuttles and the mobs of hikers and families on the more popular trails.
Outside the visitor center an overweight middle-aged man stared at a bronze statue of a young 1930’s Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worker and said, “Honey, look – a guy with no shirt on!” His equally portly wife came over and said disapprovingly, “And people have been touching him in inappropriate places!” Curious, I looked at the handsome bronze youth expecting to see a polished crotch, but instead only his nipples were rubbed to a golden color. Scandalous.
In a grocery store in the nearby town of Hurricane I saw a teenage boy, probably a Mormon, wearing a t-shirt that said, “Virginity Rocks!” That’s actually good advice for teens. Considering my recent exciting sex life, maybe I should echo the teen and have a t-shirt made that says “Celibacy Rocks!”
Given the high birthrate among Mormons, let’s hear two cheers for sexual repression!
Speaking of population growth, I was disappointed to see the huge increase in population in Hurricane and nearby St. George since I was last here in 1979. Some of the growth is probably due to prolific Mormon families, but most of it is caused by an influx of people from California and other states as well as immigrants from other countries. And in typical American pro-growth philosophy, where bigger is always better, the locals seem to welcome the change. My AirBnB host Keith, a lifelong resident of Hurricane, gave me a personal tour of his farming community that is rapidly transforming itself into a small city.
As Keith drove me through new subdivisions under construction in the farmland, his civic boosterism was very much on display: “Look at all the land around here, with plenty of room for more people!” I guess that to him, quantity is more important than quality of life. When I pointed out that we were in a desert and asked him where the water would come from to support the tens of thousands of newcomers, he said “No problem – we’ll just take more water from the Virgin and Colorado rivers.” Apparently Keith sees no limit to the amount of water that those rivers can provide. He did admit that with population growth comes more traffic and crime, and he noted the already increasing instances of theft compared to when he was growing up and folks left their keys in their car in case a neighbor needed to borrow it. But though traffic and crime are increasing – hey! There’s money to be made in developing subdivisions now, so we’ll deal with the negatives later, probably by moving somewhere else after we’ve despoiled this area. Very American. Very human.
Keith is one of 12 offspring of a devout Mormon family, but unlike his parents and siblings he and his wife are now former Mormons. He accuses Mormon founder Joseph Smith of being a pedophile because Smith married and had sex with 14 year old girls, and he said that Smith’s successor Brigham Young had to be complicit in the Mountain Meadows Massacre (see my earlier blog essay of October 7) because nothing happened in Utah at that time without Young’s knowledge and approval. He added that there is heavy pressure on LDS (Latter Day Saints) to never question or criticize Church leadership. And he said that the early LDS emphasis on polygamy (one man, many wives) was just a convenient excuse for horny Church leaders to have sex with as many women and girls as they wanted. With his wife standing next to him in the kitchen, Keith joked that the ideal number of wives is somewhere between zero and one. His wife just smiled indulgently.
From Hurricane I headed to the tiny town of Tropic, outside of Bryce National Park. There have never been any hurricanes in Hurricane, and there is nothing tropical about the desert town of Tropic. So I wouldn’t be surprised if I were to come across an arid, landlocked community called Seashore. These Utah pioneers had vivid imaginations, or a sense of humor, or both.
Outside of Bryce I saw a building that claimed to be a World Class Wildlife Museum. Next to that was a billboard advertising ATV (All Terrain Vehicle) Adventure Tours and Rentals. Given the tendency of ATVs to run over and kill desert critters, maybe the museum marketing slogan should be, “Ride our ATVs and kill the animals, then we’ll charge you to see their dead bodies.”
After a couple of sunny days hiking in Bryce Canyon I was driven indoors by a snowstorm that lasted just one day. So I spent the time reading and writing in the lobby of Ruby’s Inn, just outside the park entrance. The high-ceilinged interior is made of wood and stone, and displays the decapitated heads of male elk, moose, and bighorn sheep on its walls. A thought occurred to me: do female elk, moose, and sheep have antler envy? Probably not – having antlers might get their heads chopped off too.
I could understand how the masculine animal heads added wilderness atmosphere to the lobby, but I wondered if animal sculptures or paintings might have a similar effect without treating the animals like trophies. The decapitated creatures reminded me of how some U.S. soldiers and Indians took scalps as trophies of their conquests in the 19th century. Perhaps someday aliens will colonize our planet and mount human heads on their walls.
Speaking of masculine energy, I’ve been impressed and dismayed by all the huge pickup trucks and SUVs I’ve been seeing on the roads and in parking lots. I guess those massive vehicles prove that their male owners have big antlers.
Maybe an alien invasion wouldn’t be such a bad idea.
On October 14 I drove on Highway 12 from Tropic through the northern edge of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, established by President Obama, cut back by President Trump, then restored by President Biden. I give thanks and gratitude to two of those three presidents. Part of that national monument is in the Dixie National Forest, which has spectacular views of the distant snow-capped Henry Mountains. It was snowing as I crossed the 9600′ summit, and as I came down from the mountains headed north toward Torrey the sun hit the red rock cliffs behind Torrey and I had a stunning view of green forest, yellow aspens, and white snow in the foreground, and glowing red cliffs in the distance. Wow.
Using the little hamlet of Torrey as my base, I’ve been exploring my third national park on this trip, Capitol Reef. This national park is a bit off the beaten track, so it’s not nearly as crowded as Zion or Bryce. Yet its lofty red cliffs and deep canyons have made me appreciate anew that the American national park system is not only the first of its kind in the world, it’s also the best in the world. Documentary filmmaker Ken Burns, in his excellent series The National Parks, described these parks as “America’s best idea.” To me our parks are aspirational enclaves that capture and preserve the beauty and majesty of our country while celebrating the idealism that humans can respect and honor our natural world. I honor the enlightened leaders that created these preserves, and I honor and appreciate the employees of the National Park Service. We are so fortunate to be able to visit these natural utopias, these wilderness gardens of Eden.
And that spiritual perspective leads me to a religious adventure that I experienced here in Torrey.
Yesterday was Sunday morning, and my body was tired from all the hiking I’ve been doing the last couple of weeks. So I thought, “I’ve never been inside a Mormon church. What the hell – why not attend the services at the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints across the street from my cabin?” Only problem was, I didn’t bring any Sunday church clothes with me on this trip. I needn’t have worried – the Mormons were gracious hosts and most welcoming.
I got there half an hour early, and walked around both interior entryways and both hallways. The first thing I saw when I entered was a painting of Jesus in a white robe and soft halo gazing lovingly and compassionately at Central American Indians when, according to LDS belief, he visited them in person after his resurrection. I saw other pictures of Jesus in the hallways and meeting rooms, along with earnest exhortations on posters and whiteboards urging forgiveness, tolerance, and love.
I also saw in a foyer a 1995 proclamation from the Church leadership opposing (without explicitly saying so) gay marriage. Among the statements in the page-long proclamation: “God’s commandment for His children to multiply and replenish the earth remains in force. Marriage is between a man and a woman.”
There was no cross on the steeple, or the altar, or anywhere else. Inside everything was new, clean, well lit, and orderly. The landscaping was meticulously trimmed and maintained. It all reminded me of Disneyland. On the altar was a piano, a pulpit, and maybe three pews facing the congregation. One pew held the five female choir members, and in the pews in front were seated the male church leaders. At the piano was seated the female pianist. To my left were two clean cut young men in long-sleeved white shirts and dark ties, who I learned later are priests who consecrate the bread and water of communion! As a former Catholic, I was amazed that young men would be granted such religious authority.
There was no presiding minister, but two of the male leaders were the main speakers. There was no standing or kneeling during the service, only sitting, and there was no collection plate passed around (probably due to monthly tithing). Male ushers passed white plastic trays containing pieces of white bread and tiny plastic cups of water. Almost all the men wore coats and ties.
Before the service began I was approached by a man who introduced himself as JD. He was a friendly, bearded man with a shaved head, black suit, bolo tie, and black cowboy boots. My sweatshirt, blue jeans, and white athletic shoes obviously marked me as a tourist or other outsider, and therefore a magnet for potential conversion efforts. After some preliminary small talk, JD asked if he could sit next to me in the pew. I was pleased to have someone to talk to, and gladly said yes.
Before the service began, and for two hours after, JD answered my questions. He explained that there are no crucifixes on the steeple or altar because “we don’t worship Jesus’ death, we worship his life.” I liked that answer, because I’ve always found the Christian obsession with the suffering and death of Jesus to be morbid. Why not emphasize the message of love instead?
When I asked him why Mormons are anti-gay, he said that they are not – they are just against gay marriage and “unnatural sex.” He defended the sexual behavior of Joseph Smith and Brigham Young by saying that in those days it was not uncommon for 14 year old girls to be married, and that polygamy was commanded by God at that time to increase the population of the world. He also confirmed the painting’s portrayal of Jesus coming to Central America, and added that Jesus will return to the Americas at the Second Coming.
JD informed me that the LDS church recommends but doesn’t mandate vaccines, and the recommendation is in part for public health, and partly because the Church encourages obeying the law, and in part to protect their tax-exempt status, since opposing government mandates could invite IRS scrutiny. But JD himself is unvaccinated because “I’m a conspiracy guy.” I asked him his age, and when he told me he’s 53, I said that he’s too young to have experienced what people my age did in the 1950’s – polio vaccines in sugar cubes mandated for children, vaccines that eliminated the terrible scourge of polio prior to the widespread availability of vaccines. He didn’t respond to that information.
I don’t remember how it came up, since I didn’t ask about this, but he offered the opinion that attempts to remove “In God We Trust” from U.S. currency and “One nation under God” from the Pledge of Allegiance are the influence of Satan.
I liked JD a lot, even though I didn’t agree with him on many issues, and I admire the Mormons. They’re law-abiding, self reliant people and good citizens, though way more conservative than I am. I respect their family values, except their opposition to gay marriage. While I have a low opinion of founders Joseph Smith and Brigham Young, and distrust the Church’s secretive hierarchy, and don’t share many of their beliefs, I appreciate the sincerity of their members. And there is wisdom in some of their teachings.
Regarding the Church’s proclamation to multiply and replenish the earth, JD admitted that population growth is a problem, but said that if we see everything as a gift of God, we’ll be better stewards of the planet. And the Second Coming, which is very near, will lead to the utopia of the Celestial Kingdom, and the earth will become the Garden of Eden again.
As far as I’m concerned, we already have our gardens of Eden, and if we’d just treat the rest of the planet as well as we treat our national parks, we’d be a whole lot better off. But if Jesus comes back and turns the entire Earth into a Garden of Eden, that’s fine by me.
While I’m waiting for that event, tomorrow I’m off to visit my next two national gardens, Canyonlands and Arches. I expect that they too will be heaven on Earth.